Questions, comments and opinions

Thank you for the review. Good luck with your work!

the one from Thor. It has a flow rate of 370L/min.

That model has been discontinued because it was surpassed by the new models. I recommend TK51. The hopper plate is much thicker, more resistant, and lightweight. The gun is more durable and has a more optimized flow rate for 50l compressors. The nozzles are resized for an increased flow rate. Lockable and easy-to-clean nozzles. Universal quick coupler etc..

There are customers who have worked with decorative plaster and seem satisfied (on YouTube). But we officially recommend it for classic plaster.

Those O-rings are not for nozzles. They are spares for the brass valve inside the trigger gun. The trigger presses on a brass valve, and on that valve inside the gun, there are two O-rings. Sometimes one of them happens to fail after a few months.

The mortar must hit the wall as if you were throwing it with a trowel to ensure it bonds. The mortar shouldn't just stroke the wall as it falls.

The biggest difference is that Tenka has unscrewable and lockable nozzles. If it gets clogged, you remove the nozzle and pull the trigger to clean that specific channel.

On the ones from China, there are no nozzles, only simple holes, and cleaning is done with a small wire. This way, the dirt will accumulate inside.

There are many more advantages: vertical handle for low strain on the neck and back muscles, thick metal hopper (2mm). Lockable nozzles for ceilings and walls, high-flow gun, accessories and parts in Romania, service and warranty for up to 3 years, etc.

I bought some Chinese junk from DAEDEMAN for 300 LEI and it got completely clogged. Money thrown away.

It works .. but it gets quite hot. It doesn't have oil cooling. Work with breaks.

Out of stock.

Is the one with 5 nozzles in stock? 3 nozzles for walls and 2 for the ceiling?

Last few pieces... It's possible the price will increase from 690 to 930 lei for the next stock, from what I've understood. Stainless steel and aluminum have become much more expensive in production.

Works with the pickup. It's been tested.

Option 1: For strength, weld a metal mesh to the metal profiles (example here). Then, using the plastering machine, spray (with only one nozzle) a spatter coat over the metal mesh. Attention: do not use lime in the mortar composition as it corrodes the steel.
Only after you have sprayed the lime-free spatter coat (only cement + sand) can you load the mortar in thin layers over the metal reinforcement.
The mortar will coat the reinforcement mesh and create a strong mass anchored into the old slab.

Option 2: if the slab in the photo is already strong enough, you can attach wooden beams with metal brackets over the current steel profiles, and on them build the metal framework for plasterboard.

I assume you already have the structural slab above (as seen in the photo) and you want to load it for finishing. Otherwise, ignore everything I wrote above and consult a structural engineer. There are solutions for everything.

And how is the wall loaded with the 3 nozzles? Do you have a video or something, please?

You can find videos made by our customers on YouTube.
Example here

Thank you for the review. Good luck with your work!

What material are you using? Tenco or Multibat? Looks good.

What compressor did you use? Tank volume? air flow?

Good evening and sorry for the delay. I used multibat in a 1/3 ratio. Regarding the question about the compressor. I have a Michelin compressor with a 50L tank, max pressure of 10 bar and a discharged air flow of 250l/min (or 230, something like that). I keep it set at 8 bar on the outlet, I plaster with 2 nozzles so it throws well between the bricks and covers the mesh well. After I finish the material, the compressor runs for about another 20 sec and shuts off (reaches 8 bar). I hope the information provided was useful to you!

It turned out beautiful. It looks like stucco or some decorative finish. Congratulations

Thank you very much, George!🙏

do you still have it?

Is the offer still available?

Out of stock.

I want that model too. When will you restock?

Inner diameter of 8mm

Both the ceiling and the wall are fully loaded from bottom to top. I found a video from a customer HERE where it can be clearly seen.

The compressor is okay, it handles working with 2-3 people. The machine we recommend is the one with 5 nozzles (3 for the wall, 2 for the ceiling).
Use classic mortar (multibat with sand or cement + sand + lime) with coarse sand .. 0.4-0.5 (from a gravel pit).

Tip: if you use welded mesh or steel of any kind, do not use lime in the mortar composition. make the plastering only with sand and cement. 6 shovels of sand + 1 of cement

The ideal hose should have an 8 mm inner diameter. If it is smaller than 8mm, it can get clogged and may limit the pressure at the nozzles. If it is larger than 8mm, it is better, but it is stiffer and more cumbersome. You will trip over it.

Thank you for your reply, but I have another question. Is the 9mm inner diameter hose okay, or must it be strictly 8mm? Thank you once again.

The one with 5 nozzles. The 3-nozzle models have been discontinued.

It works, but you will need a person to lift the mortar buckets for you with a rope (pulley) and to discharge them into the hopper.

Yes. The tk31 models have been discontinued. They are old, but the accessories (nozzles, valves, gaskets, etc.) are compatible with them. You can order consumables for them without any problems.

I forgot to mention that I also had a thickness of 20 cm in some places and maybe even more; we did the entire facade of the house in 4 days—me, my wife, and my brother-in-law.

Thank you for your feedback

tenka-tools.com

It's possible. Call the number on the machine and it will be resolved. Try the warranty, though.

Super! Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback. Good luck with your work!

Which model are you using, the one with 3 nozzles or the one with 5, and what compressor?

It works. Follow the instructions on the bag.

As manufacturers, we assure you that Tenka machines have been tested on various compressors and the tests were conducted in a practical, not theoretical, manner. More specifically, 2 people plastered with classic mortar using a 50 liter / 8 bar 270l/min. compressor and it worked flawlessly. The test lasted approx. 6 hours with this compressor.

So if you work at a relaxed pace in 2 people, we assure you that a compressor with a 50 liter tank, 8 bar pressure, and a minimum intake flow of 270 liters/minute is sufficient. The recommendation is for it to have 2 pistons rather than one.
You have here a video from one of our customers with a 50 liter / 8 bar compressor with a single piston.
Here is here also a compressor model with 2 pistons.

If you work in a team (one loads continuously, another levels with the straightedge, another carries bags, another mixes, etc.), the 50 liter compressor will drop the pressure to 5-6 bar and will not be able to keep it constant at 7-8 bar as it should.
In that case, a 100 liter compressor is necessary because its motor has the capacity to charge the tank faster at a constant pressure of 7-8 bar.

The nozzles of the plastering guns are calculated very precisely to fit within the parameters of these compressors. If I am not mistaken, the nozzle diameter is 2.35mm.

Ah.. and a little muscle soreness in the left hand :)

Hello. Please tell me the recipe for the plastering material. thanks in advance. tel: 0723286055

6 shovels of sand + 1 shovel of cement + half or one shovel of lime. I got it from the net

Of course.

It works with Multibat and sand (as coarse as possible, large washed station sand 0.3-0.4); follow the recipe on the Multibat or Tenko bag.
If you don't add enough cement, the mortar will bounce off the wall and won't set. You'll lose it on the floor.
If you add too much cement, the mortar becomes too sticky and hard to throw even with a hand trowel.

If you use classic plaster (sand + cement + lime), use the 6+1+1 ratio (6 shovels of sand, 1 shovel of lime, 1 shovel of cement) or a multiple (12+2+2). If you have rebar in the plaster for reinforcement, do not use lime in the mortar recipe because the iron will oxidize and you will have a rust stain that will always come to the surface of the wall.

TIPS:
- DO NOT leave the device in the water you washed it in because the cement water will penetrate the device and can harden.
- After washing the device, leave it in clean water during your work break.
- When unscrewing the nozzles to clean them, make sure the plastering machine is washed and clean.
- Also buy the pack of spare nozzles.

Soon we will update the models with a filter to stop all the dirt from the hose at the quick coupling of the plastering machine and to get rid of cleaning the nozzles. It is being worked on and will be released on the market as soon as possible. The filter will be placed at the entrance of the trigger's quick coupling and will retain any impurity in it, keeping the nozzles clean at all times.

You have here a video from a client that shows this very clearly at minute 7. That is an older model that has been discontinued, but the cleaning is the same.

Usually, the nozzles get clogged only at the beginning during the first use because the compressor sweeps all the dirt from the circuit (hose+lance+manifold).
You have included instructions with images regarding the cleaning of the nozzles.

I like that there is no waste on the ground at all. That's good.

What compressor did you use?

What compressor do you have?

Thank you

2mm thickness. Cannot be bent by hand.

Works very well with Tenco, Multibat, Classico from Adeplast, perlitic, Caminota, Mp35, plaster made from scratch with sand, cement, lime. (No lime if plastering over reinforced concrete).
It also works with Mp75 but we only recommend classic plaster and not mechanized.

The package is being dispatched today via Fan Courier. A colleague will call you to confirm the shipment.

Understood, thank you very much

We recommend the machine only for classic plaster (sand, cement, lime), but there are customers who use it with MP75 and seem satisfied. See the video below.

Inner diameter: 8mm
Length as long as possible so you don't stay close to the compressor. Between 20 - 50m
If the hose diameter is 6mm, there is a risk of it getting clogged with pebbles or rubber, reducing the cross-section and implicitly the airflow.
If the diameter is larger than 8mm, the hose becomes rigid and difficult to handle. You will trip over it on the construction site.
If the hose length exceeds 50 meters, a delay occurs when pressing the trigger. The hose equalizes its pressure with the compressor tank more slowly.

Whatever plaster you want to use, it must pass the trowel test. Take the mortar on the trowel and turn the trowel 90 degrees (vertically); if the plaster falls off the trowel, it means the machine will also spray it nicely onto the wall. If the plaster stays stuck to the trowel or only part of it falls off, it means the machine will also struggle with it.

There have been such cases before. Send it to us and our colleagues will fix it for you immediately. You will have it back the next day via courier, unclogged. It will only cost you the round-trip shipping (approx. 36 lei). Call the phone number stuck on the machine and a colleague will guide you on how to proceed.

I'm sending it today. I'm curious how they'll manage to unclog it.

It can be fixed. Inject some kind of solution into it.

Pikinezu, have you heard of sulfuric acid?! It eats all the cement off the diffuser and from inside it!

tenka-tools.com

The black one has increased flow and overpressure protection, it's better. Meaning if you work with a single nozzle, it will release the excess air from under the trigger.
These black guns are the newest and most updated. They are completely molded from Polyamide (PA66), a very hard plastic. They are tested at high pressures and resist friction and repeated movement.
The previous brass guns used to break sometimes, but with these polyamide ones, not even one has ever broken. They are less aesthetic but much more resistant. We are sticking with them.
Sometimes the O-rings (those small gaskets) break, but you have several spare gaskets included in the package. Additionally, you can buy from us anytime. You can find them here

Attention! The gun with the trigger at the end of the lance only works in pneumatic mode between 7 and 10 bar. If you put 5 bar into the device, the gun will not close the circuit because all the parts inside (valves, gaskets, etc.) settle into their positions based on pressure. It is normal that when you blow with your mouth, it doesn't block the air. All devices do this. Connect it to the compressor at 8 bar and it will work perfectly.

That's right. The gun doesn't engage until about 5 bar. At 8 bar it works perfectly.

Within 1-3 working days, a colleague will calculate the shipping cost and call you when the package is dispatched to you. Generally, it is approx. 50 lei, but it may vary if there are additional km (1 leu / km).